I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. Should I just disable idle timing control? If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. This is more of a bit of a reality check. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. If If you find that the IAC is more than 8 percent, repeat this process and instead of shooting for 50 RPM below your target make it only 40 RPM below the target idle speed. I've been trying to correct that 1% small issue/annoyance. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. You might even want to add our 4-foot extension harness that will allow you to connect/disconnect the display or CAN-to-USB adapter from inside the car (rather than trying to do that leaning over the engine and under the breather. Going in the direction you did (higher) is going to reduce the acceleration fueling that the engine sees. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. All times are GMT-6. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) Thanks again for your insights! Often, folks will say, "I did everything you said. Then your low idle problem will go away. However, I have never found that to be the case. But if I take off from a stop and go to 1/4 or 1/2 throttle its fine and takes off like a banshee. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. I can adjust at 160deg, but my fans turn on at 180deg. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. By the time I was near home, the idle in Park was 1050, IAC 0. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. After only running for about 15 minutes or so the system starts to fail stalling the motor. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. check, I guess after reading everyone saying how great the system is after Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . )If you rule out a fuel supply issue then we're going to have to gather a few more clues. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. The distributor was loose. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. This happens no matter how much I adjust the idle screw. Everything was working perfectly and I shut off the engine. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. If I go any more it will ping. I'm happy to walk you through what is required. While it is not mandatory, I recommend the Sniper EFI CAN-to-USB Adapter to move the data between your Sniper EFI and your PC rather than trying to do this via the SD card. IAC Pos.% = 0 I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. Since your target is probably more like 700, and since 2400 is way over 1700 RPM, it's going to leave the IAC in the park position.Buckle down and find how air is getting into your engine. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. 63 bomb I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. To do this, open up the Initial Startup gauge screen that was used in section 17.0. A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. Are these compatible enough? The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. % = 49 It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Hi Chris, I have a lean stumble on throttle tip in 2-3% tps taking off from a stop light the afr will go to 19afr and the engine will stumble for a split second. I have an entirely separate article on Solving RF Intereference Issues. You are aware of the idle-up problem. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? Part# 538-13. I watched the butterflies start to open at about 35 on TPS. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. If you have an installation or start-up issue that is nagging you then please use the comments section to reply and we will gladly provide more information that we hope will be useful to you. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. When this happens, it is impossible to convince the Sniper ECU to allow the RPM to drop below a set RPM--regardless of what the target idle speed setting is. If you hit the gas it pops & backfires through the throttle body. :-). The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure GaugeI think its a little ridiculous that I cant see fuel pressure on the display even though its measuring it but whatever. After doing TPS reset it starts fine but when you give it some gas it hangs at 1500 and will not return to idle. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. I am having an idle issue (other than that is absolutely perfect). Featured Products EFI - Fuel Injection $2.59 - $6,499.95 2179 Products View Parts Sensors This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. I'm running a 408 sbc. You're going to have to get this fixed or it's going to cause even more problems than the high idle. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. It meets the target idle perfectly in either but if I lightly stab the throttle it tries to stall after slightly revving. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. such high fuel pressure. I enalble the idle timing control and fired it back up Iac was at 32% but it would come back down after a bit to around 26%. Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. I think you will find that it will learn its way through this. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. To get it to idle the tps is at 2-3-4% even with linkage disconnected and a return spring installed. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. $107.95. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. After a stall the car will restart but will be in a high idle. I did all of this before seeing the link you sent. This was an issue in the earliest version of the Sniper firmware. I then saw you guys have an awesome little gauge that can hookup inline to the snipers existing fuel feed?? Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. I appreciate everything you are saying. Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. I do know that the reference angle is 57.5, the inductive delay says 100.0. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Given the circumstances I would say that it is either the IAC motor itself or RFI but you seem to have ruled both of those out. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. If your RPM is 2000, your TPS is 0, and your IAC is not closing, then there is some problem. Add To Cart. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. What should I be looking at to calm this down? Capability Range: Advanced If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. When I put it in park the idle RPM was 2100-2200 each time. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. I think that your timing is too retarded. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Um, no. I took some pics of the sensors page this morning after the car warmed up. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. That will at least tell you something. Im not sure what its doing, have messed with after start fuel, fuel at cranking. Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. Yes, having an accurate TPS is very important at idle. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. is train the system or there is actually something wrong.I do love the system at Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. It could be, but that seems unlikely.Instead, you need to look at the basics. Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. your IAC is at zero. Nice to meet you. If more info is needed just ask. Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). :-). I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. Super helpful and knowledgeable. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) Look over all of your vacuum lines and fittings. All EFI systems need a large fuel filter to trap dirt and yet not reduce volume. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. Do please let us know what you find out! If it creates an issue (not normally the case) then you'll know. Second, Holley just released over the weekend a video on how to implement a flex fuel sensor on their HP and Dominator ECU's. We offer some tips to help with that. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get Simply turn the idle speed screw on the linkage in until the throttle plates open enough for the idle to increase. It is made by one of the biggest names in fuel filters and sold under the Parts Master label so it is quality and great price in one. Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. I'm Having trouble with the Sniper on high Idle. When you have the issue you should disconnect all hoses and plug the ports on the Sniper. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. If there's any run time on your current setup the Sniper may have some bad learn data due to what appears to be timing issues. If you get into the practice of hearing all three of these sounds you will know if you have a problem even before you turn the key to crank. Is this normal ? That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. Wish I had bought my sniper from you, but unfortunately didnt. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. Also ensure the TPS Position returns to zero at idle, & the IAC Hold Position isn't setup too high. My dad wanted to recheck the timing so I set the Static Timing at 15 and it runs perfect. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! Hello Chris. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. I'd really appreciate some help. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. Resistance results in heat and heat results in more resistance. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. I believe because the TPS is not registering. Seems to behave more better now. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. Running new vintage air system so the is only a single power wire to compressor thats why I asked if I needed to run input wire to ac relay or if iac would pick it up fast enough(which its not). and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. If you are idling at 2100 RPM (based on a default IAC Hold position of 30%) and your target idle speed is 900, then the ECU is not going to try to idle down. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! I guess we can't have everything. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. Im in Australia, so stuck the sniper on a 355 Holden engine with CD box. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Hi. Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. That is not something I'd ignore. me know how it works for you. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. You should get a light spray evenly distributed in all four barrels. Those don't impact the way the engine runs and can cause the whistle sound you describe.
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